October To Do List

•The most important thing to do is keep up with a watering routine.  With the weather a bit cooler, you won't need to water so often but don't quit altogether.  It is very important to water in (soak deeply) trees, shrubs and roses before we receive a hard frost.  Watering now will help create an ice block around the roots of trees, shrubs and roses and protect them from the heaving and thawing associated with spring.  This will melt slowly, providing the plants with some moisture as the soil warms.

•Cut back hard (down) perennials.  Remove annuals and add to compost unless diseased.  Keep seed heads intact if they are ornamental. Ornamental grasses can be kept in place as they add nice winter interest. Consider saving seed heads to add to winter containers.

•Water perennials before freeze-up.

•Rake leaves from lawn and compost unless diseased.  Lower cutting setting on mower and cut grass.

•Instead of bagging your leaves, keep some for mulching or rake them directly on to flower beds.

•To speed composting, shred leaves in shredder or a lawnmower.

•Apply mulch in a deep layer in shrub and perennial borders.  Cover evergreen perennials with conifer branches and add snow to shrubs and perennials and beneath trees.  Snow offers great insulation.

•Mulch newly planted bulbs.

•Protect tender roses such as hybrid teas with large bottomless pails or styrofoam rose huts and fill with peat moss or dry leaves.  I've had success with rose collars around hybrid roses to hold mulch in place for winter too.

•Unplanted pots of plants should be buried to their rim in soil or put in a cold frame insulated with mulch..

•Provide shade for cold frames from winter and early spring sun.

•Empty soil from ceramic containers and store inside.

•Once neighbourhood trees are bare of leaves, clean out eavestroughs and downspouts.  Make any necessary repairs at this time.

•Put up clean birdfeeders.

•Remove, clean and store pumps for ponds, clean fountains and statuary (removing pumps from all water features and storing them indoors for winter). Store or wrap to protect fountains and statuary (check manufacturer's instructions or check with store where it was purchased for correct procedures for protection).


•Make sure your snow shovel is handy.  You never know when the snow will fly.

July To Do List:

•Weed a little each day.  Deadhead spent blooms.

•Water:  A minimum of inch of water per week is required.  More will be required in hot weather or hot areas within the garden.

•Thin vegetables such as carrots and lettuce.  Compost green matter.

•Edge your lawn.

•Remove secondary branches that grow in the crook (leaf axils) of branches on tomatoes.

•Continue to tie up tall plants to stakes.  ie.  delphiniums

•Check for mildew, especially during cool humid weather.  If necessary, remove foliage from plants that have finished blooming.  (ie. pulmonariea, centaurea).  Spray as necessary to control mildew on non-food plants ie. bee balm (I tried for the first time a spray of baking soda and water mixed with good success when sprayed on plants at the first sign of powdery mildew)

•Trim new growth on hedges if desired to maintain height and width.

•Continue to fertilize, especially annuals.  If you are using slow-release fertilizer, this is not necessary, though in the greenhouse we do both a slow-release and a regular fertilizer application.  Once weekly should be adequate at half-strength.  Once a month until mid-August, fertilize your lawn.  In September you will fertilize with a winterizing formulation.

•Pinch back petunias and other annuals to keep compact.

•At the end of July, dig up, divide and replant overcrowded irises that are not blooming well.

•Photograph, record in your gardening journal.  Plan for changes for the next year.

•Remember to protect yourself in the sun with sunscreen, glasses and a wide brimmed hat.  Drink plenty water.

•Prune, if necessary, birch and maple, and evergreens.  No more than 1/3 overall.

•Trim topiaries as needed.